hijacked from Scott Triplett (Beachside Bakery view)
On the way home last night from Publix (no major disasters there except for an irate elderly women) I professed the desire to drive A1A for an ocean view. To my great surprise I saw a swell in the water…sorry to disappoint you folks but I pay no attention to forecasts…that’s what my neighbor Warren is for…Getting home I felt it was my duty to actually go for a surf and I did. The funny part of this story is what my surf session actually consists of when I say “I went surfing:)”
First my excuses. I have a two year old so the amount of surf time I get equals to the amount of “me time.” Also I really dislike cold water, wind, wind chop and I am just getting older…meaning particular about what I am paddling into. So basically I am out of shape which is further embellished by the fact that I had to squeeze into my 5 year old stretched out bathing suit. And apparently I wear a rash guard not for sun protection but to keep the mammaries in place and the belly from falling out. So not only am I super hot and sexy but I am panting and begging for air as I struggle to get through the never ending impact zone. But I made it. And then I sat. And then a set came through and I had to start panting and begging for air again as my arms burned from terrible misuse of being flung about and forced to portray wooden oars.
The crazy part as I began to notice numbness in my fingers is how grateful I was to be out in the water, even if I was just bobbing around. After a few attempts and near over the falls moment I finally did catch a wave. It may have even looked like I knew what I was doing. Most important however was the smile smeared across my red face. I can’t wait til next time! Cheers-